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The Rio Grande Valley is defined by its border with another world: scenic, ancient, exotic Mexico. Only minutes from anywhere in the Valley, the sights, sounds, smells and experiences across the Rio Grande are like nothing within our borders. From mariachi music to sizzling cabrito (young goat) to rose vendors in every restaurant, there is something to tantalize every sense.

There are 11 current border crossings in the three border counties of the Rio Grande Valley, each with distinct offerings:

 

  • Falcon Dam/Nuevo Guerrero
  • Roma/Ciudad Aleman
  • Rio Grande City/Ciudad Camargo
  • Los Ebanos/Diaz Ordaz, which has the last hand-drawn ferry on the U.S. border
  • McAllen-Hidalgo/Reynosa
  • Pharr/Reynosa
  • Progreso/Nuevo Progreso (south of Weslaco and Mercedes)
  • The Free Trade Bridge (south of Harlingen and San Benito), and
  • Brownsville/Matamoros. (Gateway, B&M and Veterans bridges) ("Ciudad" is Spanish for "city," and is abbreviated "Cd." Therefore, "Cd. Mexico" is "Mexico City." "Nuevo" means "new.")

The Pharr/Reynosa bridge, which touts the longest border crossing in the world at 3.2 miles, opened in early 1995. Several more bridges are being planned, including one at the Los Ebanos/Diaz Ordaz ferry crossing. Taxi drivers in all Mexican border towns can usually pick up and drop off passengers on the U.S. side. Ask the driver if he can cross the international bridge; then get his price. This price usually includes the border crossing fee required by Mexico and the United States and is usually cheap by U.S. standards. 

Upon entering any border market, the aroma of leather and wicker fills the traveler’s nose. Vendors of all types line the streets with fine wooden carvings, leather goods, wicker baskets, tortilla holders, hammocks, cowboy hats and sombreros, ponchos and silver hand-made jewelry. Curio shops fight for the traveler’s attention with bright displays from Mexican artisans.

Among the most popular items in any Mexican curio shop are the richly colored hand-woven blankets in a variety of patterns and fabrics. You’ll be surprised at how incredibly affordable these fine items are.

Liquor shops and pharmacies are also popular stops with tourists; for both, it is best to check with U.S. Customs officials before crossing into Mexico on what can and cannot be brought back. Most fruit and vegetables may not be brought into the United States.

 

The three largest Mexican cities on the South Texas border - Nuevo Laredo, Reynosa, and Matamoros - offer very similar experiences. All are large, modern towns loaded with curio shops, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, and all have symbiotic relationships with their American sister cities: Laredo, McAllen and Brownsville, respectively. Citizens from each side frequent the other to shop, and the cities work together most visibly through twin plant, or "maquiladora," programs.

Nuevo Laredo

Directly across from Laredo, Nuevo Laredo is a two-and-a-half hour drive up-river from McAllen and is the most urban of the lot, with taller buildings and a strong industrial base. It is nestled at the end of I-35, which connects Laredo to San Antonio, Austin, Dallas and points north, and is en route to the Mexican manufacturing powerhouse of Monterrey to the southwest.

Reynosa


Founded in the mid-1700s by Spaniard Don José De Escandon - who also founded Camargo, Mier, and Laredo - Reynosa is now a partier’s and shopper’s paradise. The street winding down off the bridge will lead you directly into La Zona Rosa, "the pink zone," which is a concentration of gift shops, restaurants and discos. ("La Zona Rosa" is a common Mexican term for club and restaurant districts, so don’t be surprised to hear it in reference to another city. Pink zones, markets, and town squares - "plazas" - are nearly universal traits of Mexican cities.) Here you’ll find Trevino’s and the Imperial, both longtime curio shops and bars, and Sam’s and La Cucaracha restaurants. Turning left off the bridge will lead you to La Mansion, a steak house converted from an old cathedral, and El Elegante. Other popular restaurants are La Fogata and Virrey’s. From McAllen: Take 10th or 23rd Streets south eight miles into Hidalgo; 23rd will lead straight to the bridge. If taking 10th, go through Hidalgo and turn left at light when road T’s.

Matamoros


If it weren’t for the Rio Grande, Brownsville would literally melt into Matamoros. The Gateway, B&M and Veterans international bridges are surrounded by a bustling downtown shopping district and even a few American fast food joints. Obregon Street leads directly from Gateway bridge and is the main street of business of Matamoros, offering a variety of hand crafts. Your nose may lead you to Garcia’s, a popular restaurant only a few blocks from the bridge. If you don’t feel like negotiating with the vendors for souvenirs, Garcia’s also boasts one of the largest gift shops in Matamoros, featuring hand crafts from all over northern Mexico. You’ll notice the areas around the bridge are more neighborhood-like than in Reynosa.

A trip to Matamoros isn’t complete without a visit to fabled Blanca White’s. This popular cantina offers the traveler an up-close look at the festive atmosphere that has become Mexico’s trademark. Sit among the memorabilia of days past. There are two museums there: Casa Mata, a historical museum that is a converted fort, and the novel Maiz Museum, that chronicles the evolution of corn.

East of Matamoros is Playa Bagdad ("Bagdad Beach"), popular with residents and visitors. From Brownsville: Stay south on Expressway 83/77 until highway ends, turning into International Blvd., which leads to bridge.

Nuevo Progreso


Just minutes south of Weslaco and Mercedes sits quaint Nuevo Progreso. This scaled-down border town may be the perfect place for skittish travelers to get their feet wet in Mexico. Its streets are lined with small malls, curio shops, clothes stores, boot shops, etc. It is small by comparison to other towns but it’s growing nonetheless. The multistory Progreso Market has more than two dozen shops, featuring arts and crafts from all over Mexico, and includes groceries and a pharmacy.

The highway south from Nuevo Progreso leads to the larger border town of Rio Bravo, about 10 miles away, from which you can go east to Matamoros or west to Reynosa. Rio Bravo is the center of a large farming area and has a growing industrial section with several maquiladora plants. From Weslaco: Take FM 1015 south, leads to bridge.

Guerrero Viejo

Up the river, just across Falcon Lake from the Texas town of Zapata, is Guerrero Viejo, or "Old Guerrero," an eerie ghost town where fishermen live amid impressive 19th century sandstone ruins. Founded in 1750 as Villa de Revilla de San Ignacio de Loyola, it was flooded in 1953 by the creation of Falcon Dam. Before the dam was completed, new homes were built for the city’s residents in Nuevo Guerrero, about 20 miles downstream, and the old city was evacuated. It was flooded when the lake filled and stayed under water for several decades. Low rainfall in the Rio Grande watershed in recent years has caused the ruined city to emerge from the water, its crumbling walls and the shells of its old sandstone buildings temporarily on dry ground. The site has become a popular tourist destination, each week drawing busloads of Winter Texans to explore its streets that, in 1880, bustled with some 12,000 people. An old church reveals itself in various stages, depending on the elevation of the lake, sometimes drawing pedestrians, other times inviting only scuba divers. From Falcon Dam: Take Mexico Highway 2 north toward Nuevo Laredo 20 miles. Turn right on the dirt road at the Guerrero Viejo sign. Don’t forget to close the 3 gates. Travel time: Two hours.

Ciudad Victoria

Ciudad Victoria is the capital city of Tamaulipas and is surrounded by breath-taking mountains. A beautiful, clean city of 300,000, it has many excellent hotels and is home to several universities, museums and cultural centers. Near Cd. Victoria are the ruins of Tula, the latest archeological find in northern Mexico. Ruins include several temples and fascinating remains of the Huasteca culture. These are smaller than the famed archeological sites deep in the interior of Mexico, but they are the closest ruins to the Texas border of the early Mexican civilizations. From Reynosa: Take Mexico Highway 97 south. From Matamoros: Take Mexico Highway 101 south. Travel time: Six hours.

Tampico

South of Cd. Victoria on the gulf coast is the port city of Tampico (pop. 900,000). Three hundred miles due south of Brownsville, it sits on a bay formed by the confluence of the Panuco, Tamessi and Guayalejo rivers; and the abundance of estuaries and lagoons makes it a hot spot for fishing and sea food. Tampico is a beautiful, thriving city with excellent hotel and resort accommodations. The area has three ports and a bustling economy. Recently restored buildings around its downtown plaza are reminiscent of old New Orleans. Built in the 1800s when commerce thrived between the two port cities, their recently completed restoration is the result of government and business cooperation. From Cd. Victoria: Take Highway 80 south. Travel time from Brownsville: Nine hours.

Nuevo Leon

All the above cities and towns are in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas, which extends in a sliver along the river from above Nuevo Laredo to the Gulf of Mexico before cutting south for 300 miles into the Mexican interior. But if you’ve made it all the way to the Valley, you’d be remiss not to take full advantage of Mexico’s interior offerings that are just a few more hours away.

Monterrey

Three hours southwest of Roma lies Monterrey, Mexico’s third-largest city and capital of the state of Nuevo Leon. Even though Monterrey is considered in the "frontera," the Mexican counterpart to the Valley, it has a distinctly different flavor, more indicative of Mexico’s interior. The most obvious difference is that it is at the foot of the scenic mountains of Mexico’s Sierra Madre Oriental range. It is considered Mexico’s most industrialized city and offers travelers world-class hotels and restaurants. Monterrey’s CINTERMEX is the largest business and trade convention center in Latin America. See the Governor’s Palace, the Bishop’s Palace and Dulces Nombres Chapel dating from 1603, and take a tour at a local blown-glass factory and silver workshop. The Museum of Monterrey boasts a valuable collection of 20th century art and the Museum of Modern Art offers no less than 14 exhibition halls to wander through. One of Monterrey’s biggest tourist draws is spectacular Horsetail Falls ("Cola del Caballo") located 18 miles west of the city. Go horse- or burro-back riding up to the falls. Also outside the city are Huasteca Canyon, Garcia Caverns, La Boca Dam and Chipinque Mesa. From Reynosa: Take Mexico Highway 40 directly there. From Roma: Take Mexico Highway 54 directly there. Travel time: Three hours

 
 
   
             
             
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